Discovering American Samoa

by John Penisten

(Pago Pago, American Samoa)

Pago Pago, despite its exotic sounding name and even more exotic location, doesn’t exactly jump out at you as one of the world’s most desirable destinations. In fact, it doesn’t jump out at you as one of the South Pacific’s most desirable destinations either. When it comes to reputations, American Samoa is, well, sort of an unknown. And therein lies its attraction and unique charm as a destination. Among the South Pacific Islands, only American Samoa is proud to be American while retaining its fa`a Samoa lifestyle.

America's South Pacific Outpost

Located some 2,600 miles southwest of Hawai`i, American Samoa includes five volcanic high islands and two small coral atolls. Tutuila is the main island and Aunu`u is a small island a half-mile offshore of the eastern tip of Tutuila. The Manu`a Islands include Ta`u, Ofu and Olesega and are located a few miles east of Tutuila. Rose and Swains Islands are small and distant coral atolls. The independent country of Samoa, which includes the islands of Upolu and Savai`i, lies some 60 miles west.

Tutuila is the largest island of the group and covers an area of 137 square miles. It’s roughly 20-miles long and 5 miles wide at its widest point. The island is a series of steep rain forested volcanic peaks and ridges, indented with valleys and open bays. The steep hills reach the coastline around much of the island and the only large flat area is the southern plain between the airport at Tafuna and the western village of Leone.

The fiord-like Pago Pago Harbor almost bisects the island and is a submerged volcanic crater. It’s one of the most scenic harbors in the South Pacific, surrounded by the green hills and dominated by 1700 ft. high Rainmaker Mountain. The climate here is tropical warm and humid. July through September are the drier months while December through March are the warmer wetter months. But it can be rainy the year around.

Early History

American Samoa became a U.S. territory in April, 1900, when the high chiefs of the eastern group of the Samoan Islands signed a deed of session. In the years leading up to World War II and just after, Pago Pago Harbor was an important refueling port for the U.S. Navy. The population numbers about 60,000, most living on Tutuila. Because it’s a territory, American Samoans are U.S. nationals and not citizens. The difference being that nationals are not allowed to vote in U.S. presidential elections. They can enter the U.S. freely however, and many have done so. There are more Samoans living in California, Washington State and Hawai`i than in American Samoa.

Economy=Fish+Visitors

American Samoa gets scant attention from the travel industry. The territory’s visitor industry is mostly undeveloped. There are a few small privately-operated lodges and bed & breakfast inns but no real hotel industry. The Rainmaker Hotel, owned and operated by the territorial government, has never had a desirable reputation as a hotel. Visitor arrivals total only around 40,000 or so annually. Many who come for the experience find it a relaxing and adventurous place to visit with terrific scenery and natural beauty, generally good food, easy transportation and enough to keep one busy exploring and discovering for more than a couple of days.

American Samoa’s economy is driven by the government, one of the largest employers. The territory gets considerable support from the U.S. government in annual grants and subsidies. The Samoan Packing and Starkist tuna canneries at Pago Pago Harbor represent American Samoa’s largest primary industry. The canneries provide hundreds of jobs and a significant boost for the local economy.

Experiencing the Territory

So what to see and do in American Samoa? There’s quite a lot really. Fagatogo, right next door to Pago Pago, is the main business and government center of the territory. The Governor’s Mansion sits atop a hill just west of the Rainmaker Hotel and the Samoan legislature, the Fono Building, is right on the main road next to the boat docks. Fagotogo Public Market is a great place to view a cross-section of American Samoa, especially on a busy Saturday morning. There is all manner of island produce, veggies, tropical fruits, and fish for sale, along with some authentic Samoan handcrafts as well.

Stop at the National Park of American Samoa Visitor Center in the Pago Shopping Plaza to pick up information on the park and maps. The National Park of American Samoa includes sections of three islands: Tutuila, Ofu and Ta`u, the last two part of the Manu`a Islands. On Tutuila, the park includes the mountain ridge to coastal section north of Pago Pago Bay and area surrounding the village of Vatia. A section of Ofu’s pristine shoreline and fringing reef is protected as a marine sanctuary within the national park. The southeastern half of Ta`u is part of the national park and features 3,000 ft. sea cliffs, some of the tallest in the world, plus native bird and plant species. Visits can be arranged with the help of national park service staff.

If you’re into hiking, one of the best is to the TV transmission towers atop 1600 ft. Mt. Alava above Pago Pago Bay. The hike takes one through the National Park of American Samoa rain forest hills. The half-day trek along an old jeep road follows the ridgeline high above the bay and provides great views of Pago Pago Harbor and opposite to Rainmaker Mountain. There are other hikes in and around the central Pago Pago area and the hills behind the bay.

Visitors can rent a car and drive to opposite ends (east and west) of Tutuila. The coastal road zigs and zags its way up the coast, following the bays and coves along the way. The road passes through quiet and tranquil villages and there are several deserted white sand beaches here and there. The villages usually feature one or more large churches and several traditional-style fale or meeting houses.

If you’re adventurous, hop on one of the colorful “Aiga busses” that crisscross the island. You can get to any part of the island on these inexpensive public transport busses for around $1.00 per person or less.

Offshore Isles and More

Offshore at the eastern end lies the small island of Aunu`u. Ferry boats shuttle passengers a half-mile or so across the water and visitors can walk around Aunu`u to discover and explore this remote corner of American Samoa. The eastern road terminates at the village of Onenoa and the return follows the same route.

From Pago Pago, the road west heads through Nu`uuli to Tafuna near the airport and across the flat southern plain. Several roads branch off, taking in villages throughout this area. The road extends west to Leone, site of a World War II airstrip, and into the hills surrounding the coastal villages of Amanave, Poloa and Fagamalo where the road terminates. There are several scenic viewpoints along this coastal drive with secluded coves, waterfalls and a few beaches as well. At dusk, watch the forests and coastline for the dozens of fruit bats that take to the air for their nocturnal forages. Sunset skies fill with dozens of the airborne mammals which are common in American Samoa.

Visitors will find that in American Samoa the fa`a Samoa lifestyle is very much alive, along with friendly folks who are exceedingly proud to be American. Talofa!

Travel Information

Hawaiian Airlines presently operates twice-weekly round-trip flights to Pago Pago International Airport from Honolulu. Flighttime is about 5-5 ½ hours. For information in Hawai`i call 1-800-882-8811; mainland call 1-800-367-5320; web: www.hawaiianair.com

There are just a handful of small lodges, hotels and bed & breakfast inns in the territory. For lodging options and visitor information, contact: Office of Tourism, PO Box 1147, Pago Pago, American Samoa 96799; tel (684) 699-9411, fax (684) 699-9414; Email: amsamoa@amerikasamoa.info; Web: www.amsamoa.com The tourism office can also assist with car rental information or contact these via the website or upon arrival.

For information on visiting the National Park of American Samoa, contact: Superintendent, National Park of American Samoa, Pago Pago, American Samoa 96799-0001; tel 011-684-633-7082, fax 001-684-633-7085; Email: NPSA_Administration@nps.gov

Dining Out Samoan Style

Restaurants and cafes in American Samoa are family-style and moderately priced. These were found to be good in terms of price and quality/type of cuisine offered.

Jeffrey’s Restaurant (699-6560), Tafuna near the airport, is a small, well-kept dining room/bar. The menu is American and features New York steaks, prime rib, various pasta dishes, fresh island fish like asi (tuna), mahi mahi, and seafood.

Rubbles’ Restaurant and Tavern (699-4400) at Nu`uuli near Pago Pago is a real hole-in-the-wall place but has excellent food. The menu has a long list of sandwiches, daily lunch and dinner specials and standards like London broil, steaks, pasta dishes, fresh island fish and seafood, etc.; a Sunday buffet from 11am – 2pm features Samoan cuisine.

The Deluxe Café (699-4000) at Nu`uuli is called the “Samoan Denny’s” by locals. It has bright, clean coffee-shop décor and colorful tropical artwork on the walls. The menu is American fare like baked chicken and stuffing, meatloaf, roast beef, several daily specials on the menu board, island seafood, sandwiches and more; portions are very generous and satisfying.

What would any place in the South Pacific be without a Chinese restaurant? The Hong Kong House (699-8983) in Nu`uuli is a newer dining room with a lengthy menu of Cantonese cuisine like spicy beef and broccoli, lemon chicken, black bean chicken, shrimp and noodles, and much more. Good Chinese food in pleasant surroundings.

Tisa’s Barefoot Bar (622-7447) at Alega Beach east of Pago Pago Bay is an American Samoa original. It’s an open-air deck and bar built on pilings over the beautiful sandy beach at Alega. Lovely view of surrounding green hills and the bay. Take a table and enjoy the view with your favorite beverage; light lunches served as well. But this is a typical South Seas watering hole where folks stop by to drink not necessarily eat. Folks drink up Vailima beer (the local product from Samoa) and drink in the view and atmosphere. If you’re lucky, Tisa herself will be there to greet you and talk story. This is a must-stop on a drive to the east end of Tutuila.

The End

(Previous versions published inHawaii Tribune Herald, Polynesian Airlines Polynesia, Hawaii Island's Magazine)