(Hilo, Hawai`i)

There are landscapes of rain forest-clad mountain slopes, rugged coastal seascapes, jungly valleys, waterfalls plunging into deep gulches and quiet villages with melodious Hawaiian names. These are among the alternating scenic vistas along the 45-mile Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast #19 on Hawai`i Island's northeast coastline. Until the early 1990's, this was the heart of the Big Island's sugar plantation country. For over a century, sugar was the livelihood of the region. But when the mills and plantations went out of business, area residents didn't quit, they dug in, literally.

Fertile fields which once produced an abundance of sugar are now producing a new wealth of tropical crops like papaya, macadamia nuts, ginger, taro, orchids and anthuriums, and even eucalyptus trees (for wood chips). Hamakua is also experiencing a rebirth of pride in its cultural heritage. The Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast is the result of a community-wide effort to help itself revive the local economy while promoting the region's unique history, culture and heritage. So, come along for the ride on the Big Island's historic Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast and discover the Hawai`i of a bygone era.

Hilo-Partly Sunny with Brief Showers

The Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast begins in the port town of Hilo, anchoring the southern end of the coast. Hilo (pop. 45,000) has the unfortunate reputation of being the wettest city in the USA (126 inches of rain annually--the reason why it's so lush and green here). The town's typical daily weather forecast is partly sunny with brief showers. Hilo's connection to the Heritage Coast is chronicled at the Lyman Museum through exhibits highlighting the multi-cultural history of Hawai`i. The original building was the home of the Rev. and Mrs. David Lyman, missionaries to Hilo in the early 1800's. The cultural artifacts, arts and crafts and displays trace the contributions of the various immigrant groups to Hawai`i including the Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Filipino and Hawaiian. Take in displays on Hawai`i's natural history, volcano lore, marinelife, an Island Heritage Gallery and one of the best private collections of fine Chinese ceramics anywhere.

If you're in Hilo on a Wednesday or Saturday morning, head for the Hilo Farmers Market downtown for all sorts of fresh produce and goods. There are fresh organically grown bananas, papayas, mangoes, oranges, strawberries and more plus vegetables you'll rarely see in a supermarket. If you are staying on Hilo's hotel row along Banyan Drive, be sure to note the huge spreading banyan trees lining Banyan Drive. The trees were planted over 50 yrs ago by several VIPs of the day including President Franklin D. Roosevelt, Amelia Earhart, Babe Ruth and an obscure congressman named Richard Nixon.

Take a Peek at Pepe`ekeo

North of Hilo four miles, turn off at Papa`ikou onto the scenic 4-mile Pepe`ekeo Scenic Drive. This is a remnant of the original Hamakua Coast highway which hugs the jagged coastline. The famed Hawai`i Tropical Botanical Gardens (entry fee required) is a wonderland of tropical plants, flowers and trees with meandering paths throughout. The gardens hold a vast collection of orchids, palms, heliconias, gingers, bromeliads, and other rare and exotic plants, some 2,000 species in all. Two miles north is What's Shakin', a country-style snack bar featuring fresh tropical fruit smoothies including banana, papaya, pineapple and guava, plus island juices, fruit snacks and more. The scenic route loops back to #19 at Pepe`ekeo.

Waterfalls and More

Honomu, three miles north, is the gateway to Akaka Falls. Turn off onto #220 and take the short, steep, half-mile climb through the sleepy village of Honomu. Akaka Falls State Park lies 3.5 miles up slope through the old sugar cane fields. Walk the rain forest trail to the splendid 420 ft. Akaka Falls and nearby Kahuna Falls. It's a fairly short 20-minute loop trail through a veritable garden of Eden.

On the way back down from the park, stop and explore Honomu's aged main street stores. Check out the varied island eateries, snack shops, art/gift stores and antique galleries in the old weatherworn store buildings lining main street. The shops are a throwback to the days when Honomu was a thriving sugar plantation town.

Valley Views

On north past Hakalau is the newly developed World Botanical Gardens (entry fee required) where you can drive up slope to the triple waterfalls of Umauma and stroll the rain forest and tropical gardens. Some six miles further on #19, you'll come to Maulua Valley where the highway dips and bends down and around. Turn off at Papa`aloa for the Papa`aloa Store to pick up cold drinks and snacks and some of their famous homemade Hawaiian-style smoked beef and pipikaula.

Tsunami and Train Memories

At Laupahoehoe, six miles on, stop at the scenic overlook or drive down to Laupahoehoe Point, now a breezy park and picnic area. In 1946, a tsunami wave struck this peninsula and wiped out the village school killing several children and teachers. A monument marks the spot. Back in the village,check out Fifties Highway Fountain for burgers, sandwiches, local-style plate lunches and good food in fun surroundings from (what else?) the Fifties. The M. Sakado Store is a classic Mom & Pop operation. It's the typical corner market which, in the old days, carried all the daily necessities, cold soda pop, ice cream, local-style goodies, etc. Stores like this are becoming harder to find around the island. The adjacent Laupahoehoe Train Museum captures the bygone era when trains ran up and down the Hamakua Coast. The museum grounds feature an old box car on rails and a recently acquired engine that is undergoing restoration. Train buffs will enjoy the museum's old photos, train memorabilia, exhibits, etc.

Plantation Cowboy Town

Pa`auilo is ten miles on as the Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast road begins a gradual climb to the highlands. The Pa`auilo Store and Earl's Snack Shop (famous for bento takeout lunches) offers local favorite goodies. Past the 38-mile marker watch for a turnoff sign to Kalopa State Park. There are nature trails through magnificent stands of varied forest lands. It's three or four miles on into Honoka`a, the Big Island's old west town. In town, try Jolene's Kaukau Korner for a hearty country-style meal. The menu features island favorites like mahi mahi, shrimp tempura, chicken katsu and beef teriyaki plus sandwiches, salads and desserts. The main street through town, Mamane Street, boasts some old shops like S. Hasegawa Dry Goods and others survivors from an earlier era. The popular Tex Drive-In on #19 above town is a must stop for fresh, hot Portuguese malasadas (like a glazed doughnut without the hole).

Valley of the Kings

Via #240, it is nine miles to Waipio Valley, the terminus of the Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast. This taro-growing valley was once a heavily populated settlement in ancient Hawaiian times. The narrow road leading down into the valley is hazardous and for 4WD only. Valley adventurers can also catch a Waipio Valley Shuttle for a narrated valley tour or just a ride down into the valley and back to explore on your own. There are also horseback rides, wagon rides, and more that can be arranged. Check the Waipio Valley Shuttle & Tours (808-775-7121) in Kukuihaele village for information on shuttle tours and other activities.

Travel Information

For information on visiting the Big Island of Hawai`i, contact the Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; Telephone 808-961-5797 or Web: www.bigisland.com For a self-guided driving tour, obtain a free Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast drive guide/brochure from the Hawai`i Island Economic Development Board, call 808-966-5416.

(Previous version published in Hawaii Westways)