(Rarotonga,Cook Islands)

The fabled Cook Islands, a few hours flight due south of Hawai`i, is one of the South Pacific’s more unheralded destinations.

For those familiar with the Hawaiian Islands, one would almost guess that this was Kaua`i with a bit of Molokai thrown in for good measure, with a few differences. In the Cook Islands, they say "Kia Orana" rather than "Aloha," and they speak English here but with a New Zealand accent. They also drive on the wrong side of the road. But not to worry, nobody drives faster than 35mph here anyway. Nobody’s in a hurry.

The Cook Islands are a mix of some fifteen small islands and atolls scattered over a large area of the South Pacific Ocean. The island group is located west of Tahiti, French Polynesia, at about the same latitude south of the equator as Hawai`i is north of it so the climates are similar.

Rarotonga, the main island, is the government and commercial center of the group. It’s a volcanic island with high mountain peaks, a beautiful coral reef, lagoon, and dazzling beaches. It has all the elements that make for an attractive destination and vacation getaway.

Polynesian legend has it that the Cook Islands were settled several hundred years ago during the great sailing canoe migrations across the Pacific. It wasn’t until the 1770’s and the arrival of Captain James Cook that the islands were "discovered" by the western world. And while Cook saw several of the outlying islands, but he never saw Rarotonga. The islands became a protectorate of Great Britain in the 1880s and later became a self-governing state in free association with New Zealand. Cook Islanders also hold New Zealand citizenship.

Getting to Know Raro

"Raro," as it’s called, is postcard picturesque. Rarotonga is small and compact, about 30-square miles in size, and just 20-miles around. It’ll take less than a couple of hours to drive around it, depending on how many stops are made. But plan on several. There’s much to see and experience.

Rarotonga has a population of about 10,000. About half of these live in Avarua town, the island’s main center on the north shore. Avarua has several historic and cultural sites worth a look. The National Cultural Center includes University of South Pacific Center and the Library and Museum of the Cook Islands which has an interesting collection of early artifacts and educational displays. The nearby Cook Islands Christian Church is a massive white-washed building surrounded by a cemetery filled with notables of Cook Islands society. For a unique cultural experience, take in a Sunday church service at any of the many churches around Raro, to listen to the wonderful inspirational singing. The Punanga Nui Market is Rarotonga’s colorful open market with everything from fresh fish to fruits, veggies and local handcrafts and well worth a stop. It operates Wednesday, Friday and Saturday mornings.

Around Rarotonga

The easiest way to get around Rarotonga is to hop on a motorbike or car and start exploring. Or take the Cook Islands Bus which circles the island hourly and stops at all major resorts, hotels and shopping centers . Two roads circle the island and one can’t get lost. The Ara Tapu is the newer coastal road and there is an older inland road, the Ara Metua. The newer Ara Tapu links all the resorts, hotels, and beaches around the island with Avarua town. The older Ara Metua road lies a mile or so inland from the coast and from early times connected all the villages around the island. The Ara Metua passes through the farming and garden areas, past orchards of papaya, noni fruit, bananas, taro and veggie patches and provides some great viewpoints.

Rarotonga’s mountains and rain forest and the encircling reef and lagoon are the dominant geographic features. The highest mountain peaks reach to over 2000 ft. high. The lagoon’s crystal clear waters provide great snorkeling to see a myriad of reef fish and varied marine life. The south coast area in the Titikaveka area has some of the best snorkeling on the island. Here the reef lagoon extends out from shore several hundred yards and the waters are generally calm with ideal conditions for easy swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, etc. The Muri Beach area is also good for sailing, kayaking, diving, snorkeling and glassbottom boat cruises.

Exploring the Interior

One of the best soft-adventure activities is the Raro Mountain Safari Tour, a 3 ½ hour four-wheel drive Land Rover cruise over the backroads and through the upland areas. The tour follows the historic Ara Metua backroad and takes in Papua Waterfall on the south side and the eastern heights rising behind Muri Lagoon. A stop at the historically important Te Arai-Te-Tonga Marae temple site provides background on early Cook Islands history. A drive up the lush Avatiu Valley affords a closeup view of the famous peak, Te Rua Manga, known as "The Needle." The final ascent climbs the western heights above the airport for spectacular coastal views. For details: www.rarosafaritours.co.ck

Those into hiking can experience Rarotonga’s rain forest first-hand on a cross-island trek with Pa’s Mountain Walk. This day-long guided hike is a strenuous cross-island nature walk. Hikers learn about local medicinal plants and native flora and fauna of the mountains. Information: www.pasbungalows.co.ck. The Takitumu Nature Walk takes hikers into the Takitumu conservation area along quiet mountain streams and through the dense tropical forest. On this trek, hikers might spot the endangered Rarotongan flycatcher bird found nowhere else in the world.

Culture and Shopping

For a genuine cultural experience, spend some time at the Cook Islands Cultural Village in Arorangi on the west coast. Step back into history and learn about early Cook Islanders lifestyle. The guided tour through the village includes demonstrations on fishing, pandanus weaving and costume making, Maori medicine and plants, coconut husking, cooking, and, of course, Cook Islands dancing. The tour combines cultural activities with music, song, dance and chants along with a Polynesian-style lunch into an informative and enjoyable cross-cultural experience.

Shoppers won’t lack for places to discover. There are numerous shops, stores and galleries with everything from T-shirts, pareaus, island-wear, art works and wood carvings to fabulous Cook Island black pearls. And because of the favorable exchange rate, US$1 gets NZ$2 (New Zealand currency is used locally), there are bargains to be found.

Travel Information

For complete information on travel to and within the Cook Islands, check out the official Cook Islands Tourism Corporation website: www.cook-islands.com

Rarotonga has accommodations for travelers in every category from backpacker hostels to economy motels and more expensive lodges and hotels as well as many family-oriented accommodations.

Restaurants on Rarotonga cover the range from inexpensive cafes and lunch counters to upscale dining rooms featuring international cuisine. Menus include everything from European to Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Italian, Polynesian, and steaks to seafood. Here are a few found to be good on a recent trip to Rarotonga.

Spaghetti House (tel 25-441) at Arorangi has an Italian menu featuring pasta, gourmet pizza, steak, chicken and island fish. The homemade lasagne is wonderful.

Alberto’s Steakhouse (tel 23-597) at Arorangi features New Zealand steaks but the varied menu also has pasta, Thai curry, chicken adobo, and fresh catch; good salad bar.

Kikau Hut (tel 26-860) at Nikao has a garden setting and European menu with items like seafood chowder, New Zealand steak, beef stroganoff, stuffed chicken breast and daily specials on the menu board; good food and service.

Edgewater Brasserie (tel 25-435) at Arorangi features a different menu each night; "Island Night" Polynesian buffet and Cook Islands dance show are held Tuesday and Saturday nights and are among the best on Rarotonga.

Cooks Corner Café (tel 22-345) in Avarua features breakfast and lunch all day with menu items like curries, fresh fish, chicken, pasta, burgers, sandwiches and more; 6am-3pm.

Mama’s Café, (tel 23-379) in Avarua next to Foodland store features breakfast and lunch, light meals, sandwiches, snacks and more.

The Café (tel 21-283) in downtown Avarua features full coffee bar and breakfast-lunch menu of daily specials. Mon-Fri 8am-4pm, Sat 9am-until late.

(Previous versions published in Hawaii Tribune Herald, Pacific Magazine, Tours & Resorts Magazine, Dallas Morning News, Hawaii Island's Magazine)