Santa Fe Rediscovered

by John Penisten

(Santa Fe, New Mexico)

Next to Hawai`i, New Mexico is perhaps the most colorful and culturally diverse state in the Union. It’s mélange of ethnic groups, languages, blend of Native American and heritages, cuisines and more make up that proverbial melting pot of cultures. On a recent return visit to New Mexico, I enjoyed rediscovering the unobtrusive small town capital city of Santa Fe, hidden away in the state’s northern high deserts at the foot of the Sangre De Cristo Mountains. Somehow, the more things change, the more they stay the same. I like that in a place.

My visit confirmed that Santa Fe remains a reflection of the very heart of “The land of Enchantment.”

Santa Fe Mystique

For sure, Santa Fe as a whole and in particular the area surrounding the central plaza is more congested with traffic and people than I remember from before. And there are more than a few touristy shops selling all manner of curios, arts and crafts, souvenirs and such. But looking beyond all that, Santa Fe is still a lovely, exciting and refreshing city to visit. It’s got a certain New Mexican mystique about it.

In a colorful land filled with so much history, natural beauty and cultural diversity, Santa Fe remains unchanged as the very essence of the New Mexico experience. It is at the same time enchanting, charming, historic and a symbol of the romantic American Southwest. The attractions of this compact city celebrate its cultural diversity and Santa Feans project a warmth, sincerity and generosity of spirit that is increasingly rare. Santa Fe is a city alive with friendliness.

From the city’s fine museums and art galleries, to the busy central plaza, to the handsome historic buildings and the robust tingle of chile-accented cuisine as only Santa Fe’s restaurants can make it, comes a strength and pride reflected by a multi-cultural community putting forth its best. It’s evident that Santa Feans are extremely proud of their diverse blend of heritage, culture and tradition.

Authentic Look

Santa Fe’s town center still retains its authentic look of the past having been originally designed in the 1600’s. The narrow streets and lanes make driving impractical but perfect for leisurely strolling, the best way to see the town close up. The town center is where I began my rediscovery of Santa Fe. Many of the most interesting shops, historic buildings and churches, art galleries, museums and other attractions are within a block or two of the central plaza.

Shade trees, park benches and historic monuments make this a pleasant town square. On its north side is the famous portal of the Palace of Governors. Under this block-long porch, Native Americans from nearby pueblos (villages) hold a daily handicraft open market. Spread out on blankets, is a colorful and unique collection of New Mexican made turquoise and silver jewelry, pottery, leather goods and more. And one can bargain with the crafters on prices as well.

Art Colony Galleries, Museums and More

Santa Fe is a thriving art colony with numerous galleries and museums with varied displays and exhibits. The art colony is centered on Canyon Road which follows the south side of the Santa Fe River from near the city center. Canyon Road is lined with attractive and quaint pueblo-styled homes that have been turned into studios, galleries, shops and sidewalk cafes. Browsing is encouraged through the varied displays of paintings, pottery, sketches, weavings, Indian blankets, handicrafts and jewelry. Canyon Road provides a bright kaleidoscopic look at New Mexican art in all its shapes, forms, colors and textures.

Back in the town center is the Institute of American Indians Arts Museum. Housed here is a national collection of contemporary Indian art in many forms. The displays provide a vivid insight into the world of contemporary American Indian art and its influences. Near the plaza, I visited the Museum of Fine Arts, a handsome “Santa Fe” styled building dating from the early 1900’s. It houses works of many of New Mexico’s most noted masters including the renowned Georgia O’Keeffe.

I also took in the Palace of the Governors just opposite the plaza, Santa Fe’s oldest structure built in 1610. The Palace houses a chronological display of Santa Fe’s history, culture and heritage from the early Spanish colonial days. Santa Fe’s Spanish and Native American heritage is unmistakable. Few other state capitals surpass Santa Fe in retaining its unique architectural heritage. The predominant influences in building and home design and construction are the Spanish adobe and Native American pueblo styles. Given Santa Fe’s climate, it’s easy to see that these building styles promote coolness and comfort in the warm dryness of the region. The earthy brown, tan and reddish colors of the buildings also blend in with the arid environment. City law helps retain the unique flavor of Santa Fe by requiring all new buildings to conform to traditional “pueblo style” design and construction.

Santa Fe Cuisine

One of Santa Fe’s greatest adventures is exploring its delightfully zesty cuisine. The basic flavoring of Santa Fe cuisine is the local New Mexican chile considered the gourmet chile of the pepper world. The chile, in both green and red versions (depending on whether it’s used before or after ripening), is used to prepare green and red chile sauces. The sauces are used as the flavor-base for many local dishes directly in the cooking process or as a garnish sauce added when served. New Mexican chile adds an intense piquant flavor to food, often hotter than other regional Southwestern or Tex-Mex chile sauces which tend to be more tomato-based. Santa Fe cuisine, while spicy hot with the chile, also tends toward light and natural.

Many restaurants emphasize traditional Santa Fe-style enchiladas, burritos, tamales, tacos and quesadillas in chicken, beef, pork and vegetarian varieties as well as nouveau cuisine gourmet fare such as duck, quail, pheasant, venison and special seafood creatively prepared with just the right touch of chile. Many of Santa Fe’s better restaurants are increasingly emphasizing organic natural ingredients and local products. It has set Santa Fe cuisine apart from the rest of typical Southwest fare.

Among the more popular restaurants in Santa Fe (there are so many from which to choose!) are Coyote Café & Cantina, Pasquale’s, The Pink Adobe, Blue Corn Café, Anasazi Restaurant, and La Casa Sena. At most of these eateries, you can sample the wide variety of delicious authentic New Mexican fare.

Rediscovery

Discovering, or in my case, rediscovering Santa Fe’s enchantment is a real adventure. It’s the history, natural beauty, culture and tradition, cuisine and the friendly Santa Feans that make up the mystique of the place. It was nice to rediscover that some things don’t really change after all. Ole!

Santa Fe Information

For more information on Santa Fe and to request a current visitor’s guide, contact the Santa Fe Convention & Visitors Bureau, 201 West Marcy Street, PO Box 909, Santa Fe, NM 87504-0909, toll free 1-800-777-2489; on the Web: www.santafe.org For general information on New Mexico and to request a state vacation guide, contact the New Mexico Tourism Department toll free at 1-800-733-6396, ext 0643; or on the Web: www.newmexico.org

Taos Pueblo

A bit further afield, some 68 miles north of Santa Fe, is the stunning Taos Pueblo. It is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in North America and is believed to be over one thousand years old. The multi-leveled terraced complex helped inspire the Pueblo Revival architecture style in contemporary New Mexico.

Visitors will enjoy strolling the broad central plaza area and visiting the many arts and crafts shops the resident Tiwa-speaking Native Americans operate. The Taos Pueblo is a World Heritage Site and was named a National Historic Site in 1992. A visit to Taos Pueblo is highly recommended.

The End

(Previous versions published in Los Angeles Daily Breeze, Hawaii Island's Magazine)