(Hilo, Hawai`i)

The nice thing about the Big Island of Hawai`i is that, well, it's so big. It has some 1500 miles of paved roads for wheeling around (and countless miles of unpaved ones). As the myna bird flies, it's about 225 miles in either direction via Highways #11/19 from Hilo or Kona (the gateways) to complete a circuit of the island (#11 loops south around Volcano and the Ka`u District while #19 heads north through Hamakua, Kohala and Waimea). There are a number of interesting byways worth discovering and exploring but don't expect to do it all in one day. They're not kidding when they call this the "Big Island."

The Kona-Kohala Sun Coast

The Kona-Kohala Sun Coast on the west side of the Big Island is a 35-mile stretch of the Queen Ka`ahumanu Highway #19. The warm, sunny coast runs from Kawaihae on the north to Kailua-Kona on the south end.

Kailua-Kona (just plain "Kona" to locals) used to be a quiet fishing village. Today, its attractions are the verdant mountain slopes covered with coffee, macadamia nut and fruit farms, and historic connections to places like Ahuena Heiau (said to be near King Kamehameha's last residence) and Hulihe`e Palace (Hawaiian royalty's summer home). Ali`i Drive is Kona's "main street" with its own version of a laid-back Hawaiian atmosphere. With its numerous hotel and condo resort lodgings and myriad activities and attractions, Kailua-Kona is a bustling visitor center.

The old Holualoa Highway #180, covers about 6.5 miles just upslope from Kailua-Kona town and is one of the area's most interesting drives. The road winds its way along the slopes of Mount Hualalai from the Palani Road junction and #180 to the small village of Holualoa. There are coffee farms, country churches, rustic village stores and shops, and perhaps most surprising, a thriving art colony in Holualoa village to discover. The art studio/galleries have everything from ceramics to original paintings, hand-crafted jewelry to genuine Hawaiian-made \i lauhala\i0 creations. For fresh Kona coffee and local goodies, stop at the Holuakoa Cafe. The Ferrari Coffee Plantation Visitors Center and other coffee farm outlets in the area offer free samples of fresh-brewed Kona coffee and bags of fresh beans to go.

At Kawaihae on the north end of the coast is Pu`ukohola Heaiu National Historic Park. This massive \i heiau\i0 (temple) was built by Kamehameha the Great in 1791 at the advice of a \i kahuna\i0 who told Kamehameha that he would conquer all the islands of Hawai`i if he did so, a feat he accomplished in 1795. View the visitors center displays here and feel the power of this historical place.

Kohala Mountain Road and Akoni Pule Highway

The northern tip of the Big Island features the scenic Kohala Mountain Road #250 which runs between Waimea on the south and Hawi on the north end. It's a beautiful breezy drive up and over the Kohala Mountains and through rolling, green pastures. At Hawi town, #250 intersects the Akoni Pule Highway #270 which runs along the lower Kohala Coast back to Kawaihae. Give yourself a chance to explore old Hawi town and nearby Kapa`au. Visit the old courthouse at Kapa`au to see the statue of King Kamehameha who was born in the area. There are some interesting shops, coffee bars and eateries here. Kohala Coffee Mill combines Tropical Dreams Ice Cream Shop to offer some tasty delights while Bamboo Restaurant is noted for its Asian/Pacific cuisine. Check out local art galleries such as Sue Swerdlow Art Gallery, The Nanbu Gallery, Vea Polynesian Arts and Crafts and others.

Just west of Hawi town on the Akoni Pule Highway #270 is the turnoff to Upolu Point. This narrow, paved, but bumpy three-mile stretch slopes down to the coast and is meant for the adventurous. It ends at the little-used Upolu Point airstrip on the island's north coast. West of here about 2.5 miles on a rutted, dusty, but passable dirt road are the state monuments, King Kamehameha the Great's Birthplace and the famed Mo`okini Luakini Heaiu built about 480 A.D.

About eight miles further south on #270 is Lapakahi State Historical Park. This is the site of an old Hawaiian fishing village complete with \i hale\i0 foundations, canoe landings, fishing shrines and garden plots. You can take a self-guided walk through the village site and catch a glimpse of the old Hawaiian lifestyle.

Ka`u, Ka Lae and Volcanoes National Park

The Ka'u District is one of the largest, most remote and least populated areas of the Big Island. Highway #11 traverses this southernmost region through Ka`u, allowing you to experience some of the Big Island's most wide open, desolate expanses of dry lava desert, windblown grasslands and mountain slopes.

There are just three small towns, Pahala, Na`alehu and Waiohinu, enroute to Volcanoes National Park (100 miles distant from Kailua-Kona; 28 miles from Hilo). Ka Lae, or South Point, is the southernmost point in the USA. Ka Lae is accessed via South Point Road, a narrow 10-mile route. Ka Lae is believed to be the landing site where the first Hawaiians stepped ashore after their long ocean canoe migrations long ago. There are old canoe moorings and the ruins of a fishermen's heiau here. Green Sand Beach at Mahana Bay is accessible via a coastal hiking trail five miles east of South Point. Access is restricted at times and a permit may be required. For current information, contact Department of Hawaiian Home Lands in Hilo, 808-974-4250.

Turn off #11 at Punalu`u Seamountain Golf Course between Na`alehu and Pahala. At Punalu`u Black Sand Beach Park, look for the numerous green sea turtles as they feed along the beach.

Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park is one of the Big Island's most popular destinations. Wheeling through the park presents views of stark volcanic landscapes, gaping craters, steaming vents and lush rain forest. Crater Rim Drive is a 10-mile loop drive which takes in several important sites around Halema`uma`u Crater.

Head south on the Chain of Craters Road from the Crater Rim Drive. This twenty-mile drive ends in a dead end where recent lava flows on the Kalapana Coast have blocked the highway. It's a drive through stark, open, breezy lava fields sloping down to the flat coastal lands. If the lava is still flowing, you might be able to see where it enters the ocean creating huge billowing clouds of volcanic steam. Be prepared for walks of 2-hours or more over rugged lava rock terrain to reach viewing areas. Nightime provides views of lava streams over the distant inland hills and \i pali\i0 (cliffs). However, heed the safety signs and park rangers' advice as it can be a dangerous area. For current eruption information, call Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park, 808-985-6000.

The Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast

The 45-mile Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coastline #19, between Hilo and Honoka`a on the east side, is one of the Big Island's most scenic and historic drives. It winds through the heart of former sugar plantation country. And while the mills and plantations are gone now, the impact on the lifestyle, culture, people and communities is still evident.

There are rain forest clad mountain slopes reaching to the sea, deep gulches and valleys, and high cliffs that plunge into a foamy sea of crashing surf. Those thousands of acres of cane fields are now producing bountiful crops of papaya, macadamia nuts, ginger, taro and even eucalyptus tree farms.

The road meanders the coast, passing through several old plantation villages and terminates a few miles past Honoka`a at the scenic Waipio Valley State Park overlook. Watch for Hawai`i Tropical Botanical Gardens on the Pepe`ekeo Scenic Drive and the World Botanical Gardens at Umauma near Hakalau. Akaka Falls State Park is just above the old village of Honomu and is a garden of Eden walk to superb waterfalls views. There are numerous streams and waterfalls enroute along the way. Be on the lookout for the Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast signs marking historic places of interest as you pass through the quiet villages.

Four Wheel Frolics: The Saddle Road and Mauna Kea Summit

Highway #220, the Saddle Road, runs for some 50 miles between Hilo and the Waikoloa area. It's a paved but narrow winding road not really suitable for the family sedan but ideal for a 4WD/SUV. The route passes through the dry rain forests, lava fields and ranch lands of the mountains. There are no services along the route, but Mauna Kea State Park provides rental cabins for camping and exploring the dry near-desert region (info State Parks Office, Hilo, 808-974-6200).

The views are awesome along the John A. Burns Way, a 12-mile branch road that winds its way up to Mauna Kea's 13,796 ft. summit and the observatory complex. Visitors can stop at the Ellison Onizuka Center for International Astronomy at the 9200 ft. level to see displays on Mauna Kea's ongoing astronomy research activities. The Center also provides free observatory tours at the summit. For information, call the center at 808-961-2180. Another branch road leads south off Saddle Road and up the flanks of Mauna Loa through vast lava fields. The road terminates at the NOAA Mauna Loa Weather Observatory.

For the really adventurous 4WD fanatics, take in the Mana Road which branches off from the Burns Way summit road and meanders through high country ranch lands and koa forests. Mana Road circles east around Mauna Kea's upper flanks and then heads north terminating near Waimea. It's a unique backcountry drive through some spectacular high mountain country. Allow a half-day to complete the Mana Road route and take a picnic lunch along.

(Previous version published in the Honolulu Advertiser)